AIC 53rd Annual Meeting

This presentation documents the evolving treatment of an early 18th century Indian palampore in the Saint Louis Art Museum collection. The palampore depicts a tree of life motif, executed in silk chain stitches on fine cotton twill weave ground. It is an impressive example of ari (hook) embroidery, and would have taken many expert hands and hours to complete at this size (132.5 in. x 98 in.). Most palampores are printed; only two other embroidered palampores have been identified in western collections (Museum of Fine Arts Boston, Victoria and Albert Museum). 

When acquired in 1922, this palampore was considered an exceptional example. It likely hung on display at the Saint Louis Art Museum for many years, until it was sent out for treatment in 1939. An independent textile restorer, Helene Fouché, was hired to stabilize the ground fabric that had torn with the weight of the embroidery. The palampore was both stitched and adhered to a full backing, using an adhesive which she described as “liquid thread.” Once returned to the museum, the curator Thomas T. Hoopes expressed his dissatisfaction, noting that the adhesive had already discolored, and fearing further damage. 

In 2022, the palampore was chosen as an ongoing graduate summer internship project. By then the palampore was in extremely poor condition and required an in-depth treatment. With further aging, the adhesive deposits had stiffened, causing fracturing and breakage of the ground fabric. The entire ground had lost flexibility and yellowed, in addition to the brown spots of adhesive residue throughout the textile. That first summer, treatment focused on solubilizing the adhesive and removing it with a suction plate.

In 2024 treatment shifted to restabilizing the splits and areas of loss. The adhesive removal had brightened and softened the ground, but the fabric remained too fragile to stitch into. It was therefore determined that another adhesive treatment was the best course of action. An overall support could not be used, as distorted “excess” ground fabric remained puckered within the embroidery motifs. Small localized adhesive supports were instead custom cut for each area of damage, and laid perpendicularly on flat ground to bridge splits and support the edges of losses. 

Though much was accomplished during these two ten-week internships, treatment of the palampore is ongoing. There is more adhesive stabilization to be completed, as well as compensation for loss, and development of a mounting plan. It has proven to be a complex, yet rewarding collaboration thus far, and the authors welcome reflections and suggestions before its continuation.